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Squid Streamer

Hello, this is Kubo. Today I'll be talking about the 2022-2023 Fall/Winter collection from "yoshiokubo."

The theme was "ikanobori (squid rising)." It's probably not a word you hear often, but the squid in ika-agari is what we would now call an "octopus rising into the sky." We used to often raise them up during the New Year when we were in elementary school. They come in all different shapes, but the common triangular ones look like squids, don't they? That's why they were called "ika-agari."

Why did the squid become an octopus?

There are various theories, but one story is that kite flying was hugely popular during the Edo period. However, kite flying wasn't originally just for entertainment; it was apparently used by the shogunate as a form of communication... Apparently, a ban was issued because people were saying, "It's a nuisance when so many different kites are being flown without permission!"

From the perspective of ordinary people, it would be unbearable to have one of their few joys taken away from them. So, they pushed back, arguing that it was not a squid but an octopus. And so it began to be called a "kite (tako)" as it is today.

So why did I choose the theme of kites? It all started when I saw a photo of an old man flying a kite.

Lately, I've been focusing on Japan and harmony, so kites seemed like a good choice. But kites sounded too straightforward, so I changed the wording a bit. Kids these days don't play much with menko or kendama. I used to see them a while ago, but now you don't even see them in 100-yen shops. I guess I'm more interested in cultures that seem to be disappearing.

Well, it all started with the kite, but I also wanted to make something that would make a silhouette pop out. I was racking my brains trying to think of a way to make that happen, and that's when I came across the photo of the man I mentioned earlier.

I'm working on Western clothing, so if you broaden the interpretation, I think sports kites would be fine too. Sports kites often use flashy colors, and the frame changes that go through the middle overlap with the style I'm good at.

The collection features pop-out shapes and incorporates auspicious motifs such as kite patterns, dragons and Hanafuda cards into the designs. The women's clothes this time were also made specifically for women, rather than dressing the models in men's clothing, so the level of completion is completely different. This is the second time the show's production team has been involved, following the last one, so they're even more powerful than before.

The video for this collection is divided into two parts: a three-minute short film shot by film director Kojima Hiro on the morning of the show, followed by the actual physical show. Be sure to check out the video, which will be released at 10:30 PM Japan time on the 23rd, to see how it turned out.


FALL/WINTER 2022 LOOK

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