In this issue of "Behind the Scenes: The Appeal of Fall/Winter 2024 Items," the planning staff of yoshiokubo will be focusing on products from the Fall/Winter 2024 collection that they are particularly proud to recommend.

-What item would you like to introduce?
TWIST DUFFLE COAT

-Why did you choose the TWIST DUFFLE COAT?
It has a twisted design, and I call it a "hidden classic." I wanted everyone to know how great it is.

-What's the first point?
The seam and pocket positions have been carefully calculated to create the illusion of a twist. Since the Autumn/Winter 2020 season, when the brand participated in Paris Fashion Week, they have been developing a series of designs incorporating this twist element, and the most popular of these is the duffle coat. Fall / Winter 2020 Runway Photo

The pattern was created using the silhouette of a regular duffle coat, and then the seam lines were changed to create the piece.

For example, the hem of the left body and the neck of the right body are sharp, the shoulder lines are in different positions, and the center line of the back is slanted, making it asymmetrical, expressing the twisted look of a towel when it is wrung out tight. If you look closely, you will notice that the details are strange, which is a distinctive feature of this design. -What's the second point?
Please pay attention to the gradation of the string that fastens the toggle. We added a little extra effort to the details to add an accent.

I must have made over 50 prototypes to get the perfect gradient from the end of the string. I remember taking it home and trying it out every night (laughs).

The coat comes in three colors, and the color gradation changes to match each color. The most difficult part was writing down the temperature and time for soaking in the dye in a notebook, as the dyeing process differs depending on the color you want to dye.

When it came time to mass-produce them for sale, everything went smoothly because we consulted with the accessory manufacturer (in this case, the company that made the string that fastens the toggle part) about the most efficient method. -What's the third point?
Attention to detail. The sleeves are lined for easy on and off, and the body is unlined with piping to give a neat look when worn open. This serves to protect the edges of the fabric from fraying. If the lining were used to cover the edges, this finishing would not be necessary, so this is a point worth noting, as in this case, "we have not neglected the necessary details because the garment is visible."

The armholes are larger than those of typical outerwear, so you can easily wear thick tops and sweaters. Items incorporating this twisted design will also be appearing in the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which will begin arriving in the new year. We are working hard on creating them, so please look forward to them.

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