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The story of the remake project and the creation of a one-of-a-kind coat

This was the first attempt by yoshiokubo to take a piece of clothing that someone had loved but hadn't worn much recently and was now resting in the closet, and have it remade into a one-of-a-kind, original garment. The remake was completed at the end of November, and we were able to deliver the reborn garment to you. Here, we will write about the process of creating this one-of-a-kind piece of clothing.

So, how should we remake it? → In a yoshiokubo style, using different materials!

As I mentioned in "The Aftermath of the Remake Project: A Story of Reuniting with My Past Self," the coat I ended up remaking was one of the pieces I released to the world as part of yoshiokubo's first collection. The actual item was in good condition, and it was a good opportunity to objectively reflect on my past approach to clothing design and the slight differences between it and my current self.

So, when I look closely at my "origins"...
I felt like, "I don't want to get involved!"

In the first place, there are an infinite number of ways to remake something.
I'm sure many people were imagining, "Since it's called a remake project, they'll probably cut and paste and do all sorts of things to dramatically change it." I actually thought the same thing at times.

However, when it came to remaking it, as I mentioned earlier, I didn't want to make any changes.
In that situation, I was quite unsure how to remake it, and it took me a while to decide on a direction.

And so, I arrived at the basic policy of "not doing anything that I wouldn't want done to me, interfering as little as possible, but helping to give things a makeover."

So, while imposing the rule of preserving the original form, we had to think about what would make it "new," and the answer we came up with was very much like Yoshiokubo.
It was definitely the use of different materials.

Integrate your past work with elements you like now

So let me explain how I specifically remade it. To cut straight to the chase, I decided to create a "cover" out of translucent 100% polyurethane fabric and cover the 100% cotton coat I was remaking. In addition to mixing different materials, cotton and polyurethane, I wanted to add elements that weren't present in the original coat, such as "it seems like you can see what's on the other side, but you can't, the boundary is ambiguous, making you want to look more closely," which would pique curiosity, as well as "movement that is linked to your movements."

When you see it written like this, you might imagine it looks like a raincoat is put over it. That's certainly true, but to make it look modern and neat, in keeping with yoshiokubo's style, we first added a little ingenuity. We redrawn the original coat pattern and then created a new pattern for the cover that was a few millimeters larger. This is the fluorescent light blue part in the video.



As I redrawn the pattern, I realized that the hood of the original coat had a bridging piece of fabric running through it to keep it in shape, so I had put a lot of thought into it back then.
It took quite a bit of skill to recreate the polyurethane hood so that it maintained its shape and fit properly.

If you look closely at the translucent cover, you'll see that even the seams are part of the design.

The key part of this remake is the polyurethane cover.
When it came to the seam allowances on the polyurethane fabric around the face and cuffs, we aimed to create a design where, if you look closely, even the seam allowances become an accent in the design.

If that happens, the fabric can slip and shift, resulting in an untidy seam, or holes in the seams can widen, weakening the fabric's strength. With that in mind, we had to fold the polyurethane fabric three times and carefully sew it together, adjusting the tension of the thread to match the fabric's tendency to slip, which was a process that required a lot of nerve and skill.

However, as you can see in the photo, the result was exactly what I was aiming for.

By the way, if you want to know how difficult it is, try sewing a plastic bag with regular thread. If you're interested, please give it a try.



Combining a "rare look" with a "typical look of polyurethane material"

Next, to add the element of "movement that occurs in conjunction with movement," we took advantage of the polyurethane material's characteristic of not fraying even when cut. The hood, body, and cuffs are folded three times and sewn together, but the hem is left raw to create a flare, giving it a natural flow and a relaxed feel.
I think it's an interesting attempt to combine both the "uncommon look" of polyurethane material and the "typical look of polyurethane material" in one garment.

We managed to keep it as original as possible, so it can be remade again in a few years.

The newly added polyurethane cover is designed to attach to the original coat with a concave/convex button, and this is the only part of the original coat that was modified. Also, so that you can remove the cover and continue wearing it as the original coat, we decided to include convex dot buttons that fit over the concave buttons of the original coat as an accessory.

It's not unique, but it's something I've never seen before.
If you look closely, you'll see that it's very elaborate.
I think it's a unique piece that's packed with the essence of Yoshiokubo.

I would be happy if people could wear it for about 10 years, and it would also be interesting to remake it again in 10 years' time by replacing the cover or making further modifications.

Recently, at yoshiokubo, we have been making clothes with a stronger belief that "if we can create a one-of-a-kind piece that is carefully thought out and made with care, it will not be easily 'consumed' but will be worn with love for a long time to come," and we believe that we have been able to embody this same idea in this piece of clothing.

However, planning a remake was really difficult!
We are currently considering whether to hold the same event again in the future, but if we do, we will announce it on our official Instagram or official LINE account, so please subscribe if you are interested!

Official Instagram account
@yoshiokubo_official

Official LINE account
@yoshiokubo

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