The "FEATHER" series stands out among the Fall/Winter 2013 collection.
We will introduce the story behind this unique piece, which is made from a special material that sandwiches feathers between padded polyester fabric and sheer nylon fabric, and is further embroidered.

Depth that cannot be achieved by printing

The FEATHER series aims to create clothes that you can't tell at a glance how they are made, and we took on the challenge of developing fabrics first.
This material was created in pursuit of a depth and texture that cannot be expressed through prints, by sandwiching feathers inside a transparent material.The feathers are fixed in place with a quilting process, giving the fabric a complex look, and when worn in particular, the feathers inside sway naturally, creating a one-of-a-kind look.

This fabric also embodies Yoshiokubo's identity of "dealing in original fabrics," which it has continued to pursue since the brand's debut.

Accumulation of trial and error

Creating new fabrics is always difficult, especially the process of turning ideas into reality, which required dozens of prototypes to be made in-house.

The first hurdle this time was finding the "optimal solution" for how to distribute the feathers and their amount so that they would appear irregular yet uniform.
And another thing, when adjusting the overlap between the feathers inside and the transparent material, we repeatedly tried matching the colors of about 10 different types of feathers with the nylon material, and we ended up with a trial and error process to create a ``gap between the color we imagined and the actual color.''

Designer Kubo says that this experience provided new insights and "it was also an opportunity to rediscover the depth of fabric making."

Finding a factory that will accept

The planning staff recalls that even after the samples were completed in-house, it was "quite difficult" to request the fabric be produced.
The reason for this is that the process of putting something between the quilts is unusual in the first place, and it is difficult to find a factory that will undertake the job.

Among them, Watanabe Sangyo Co., Ltd. was the only factory that could help the designer realize his dream of "making it!"

Randomly placing feathers, a delicate process

Mr. Tsuji, who was in charge of producing the fabric, is a veteran craftsman with eight years of experience.
From this story, we were able to get a glimpse of the artisans' meticulous techniques and the tremendous amount of effort that goes into making the fabric.

First of all, the process of inserting the feathers between the pieces of dough may seem simple at first glance, but it is actually the most nerve-wracking part.
Put in at once The feathers must be arranged randomly each time to avoid uneven numbers, and if you try too hard to make them look uniform, the expression will end up looking unnatural.
Apparently, creating that exquisite "randomness" is a process that requires experience and intuition.

In addition, when sandwiching the black feathers between the khaki fabric, there was a risk that the color would get on the hands and stain the fabric, so the workers washed their hands frequently and proceeded carefully to prevent the color from transferring.
The fabrics are carefully produced with meticulous attention to detail and are filled with the heart and soul of the artisans.

A process that is both "difficult" and "rewarding"

" "The difficulty is placing the feathers randomly." These words from Tsuji reveal the true essence of this work, which is profound precisely because it is simple.
He also told us that adding feathers to quilted embroidery was a first attempt, and that after several craftsmen made numerous prototypes, Tsuji was chosen to be in charge because he was able to arrange the feathers the best.

Comment from Tsuji

"I usually embroider on padded fabrics, so this project was quite different and, to be honest, I was a bit perplexed at times. But it was an interesting challenge."

The joy of seeing the finished product

"I was a little nervous because it was my first time doing embroidery, but I'm glad I was able to complete it without any problems. I was relieved when I saw the finished product."
These words from the craftsman convey the tension that is unique to the manufacturing workplace, as well as the sense of accomplishment that comes from overcoming it.
The finished items have a presence like works of art, highlighting the individuality of the wearer.

The time and effort put into each garment

When sewing with an embroidery machine, it is common to use an industrial embroidery machine that is suitable for mass production, and it is common for one person to operate two machines at the same time in factories that do raw material embroidery* such as Watanabe Sangyo Co. , Ltd.
However, when it comes to producing this fabric, it is necessary to finish the fabric in an unusual way, which is to "clamp the blades → operate the machine → clamp the blades," so one person was solely responsible for one machine.
These points also show that the "FEATHER" series is truly the result of the craftsmanship of artisans.

* Original fabric embroidery is a process in which embroidery is applied to a base roll of fabric that has not yet been processed, creating a unique piece of fabric.

What makes it "special"?

The original fabrics used for the "FEATHER" series cannot be mass-produced. They are packed with the sincerity and passion of Tsuji and the other artisans at Watanabe Sangyo Co., Ltd., who spare no effort or skill, and who pay close attention to every detail.

It is because each Yoshiokubo garment is made into clothing after going through a sewing factory that it has a unique look.

That is why this item goes beyond being just clothing, becoming a "work of art" that enriches the wearer's fashion and adds color to their life.

Behind the reason why yoshiokubo has consistently stuck to original fabrics since the brand was founded, as well as this fabric, is a process in which the designer himself is directly involved in the manufacturing process, creating the pieces through repeated trial and error.
Because it is "within the designer's reach," they are able to create one-of-a-kind fabrics and clothing with great passion .
That's the main reason why this series is so special .

I hope you will pick up the clothes and enjoy reading about these stories.